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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.